Possible causes are a damaged pinion or ring gear, a defective starter or magnetic switch, a defective ignition switch or control circuit.
Possible root causes are a defective drive clutch or a defective starter motor.
Possible root causes are a defective solenoid, a damaged or worn pinion gear or ring gear.
There are a couple of reasons the outboard pad can wear out before the inboard pad.
• A weak battery.
• Loose or corroded connections.
• Defective starter motor.
• First, check the battery state of charge. Clean and tighten connections. Test the starter and diagnose engine problems.
Unable to start the engine may be caused by any of the following variables:
• A dead battery
• Defective fusible link
• Loose connections
• Defective ignition switch
• Defective solenoid
• Engine problem
• Problem in the vehicle anti-theft system
•Never disconnect a battery cable with the engine running.
Removing a battery cable with the engine running causes voltage spikes which can damage the alternator, computer and other electrical components in your vehicle.
•Make sure you have a good, fully-charged battery.
The starter motor will not work properly with a weak or defective battery. The voltage from the key contact should be a minimum of 9,5V during starting.
•Do not use starter motor for ventilation of diesel motor.
After repairs to the injection system (changing filter, diesel pump, high pressure pipes, etc.). NEVER ventilate by using the starter motor. This can cause overheating of the starter motor especially with gear reduction starters.
•Check other components of the starting system.
•Never disconnect a battery cable with the engine running.
•Removing a battery cable with the engine running causes voltage spikes which can damage the alternator, ECU and other electrical components in your vehicle.
•Make sure you have a good, fully-charged battery.
•Your alternator is not designed to recharge a weak or defective battery and may be damaged by doing so. Charge and load test battery prior to alternator installation.
•Do not overload the alternator.
•Retro-fit high power stereo’s, fog and driving lights, or other devices may exceed the capacity of the alternator, causing premature failure.
If the instrument panel or gauge indicates a problem, a voltmeter can be used to isolate faulty components in the charging systems. If you do not have the equipment or skills necessary to perform these tests, your alternator supplier can test your system, recommend a local facility to do so.
USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN WORKING AROUND AN OPERATING VEHICLE ENGINE.
Perform ALL of the following tests with the engine running at 2000 RPM with lights and heater fan ON.
•Voltage Test:
Measure from the positive battery post to the negative battery post. A good reading is between 13.0 and 15.3 volts. A higher reading may indicate a bad regulator. Do not operate vehicle if reading is higher than 15.3 volts. If the reading is lower than 13.0 volts, check the following:
•BATTERY: A weak or defective battery will cause other charging system components to appear faulty.
•BELTS: loose, worn, cracked or glazed belts will slip and cause low output from the alternator.
•Negative battery cables and connections
Connections from the battery to the frame / chassis and engine block must be clean, tight and corrosion free. To verify, measure from the alternator case to the negative battery post. A reading higher than 0.25 volts indicates a problem with the negative battery cable or connections to frame / chassis engine block.
•Positive battery cables and connections
The connections from the positive battery post to the alternator output, including positive cable, fusible link and alternator output wire, should be clean and tight. To verify, measure from the alternator output terminal to the positive battery post. A reading higher than 0.35 volts indicates a problem with the positive battery terminal to alternator fuse block connections. If the reading is higher than 0.75 volts, look for blown fuses, swollen or discoloured fusible links or an open wire.